Beyond gold and diamonds: High-end jewellery’s material shift

High-end jewellery is no longer measured solely in carats or gold weight. Across couture collections and museum showcases, designers are redefining luxury through material innovation – embracing leather, resin, shell, ceramic and rock crystal, to name a few, alongside traditional precious stones. Last year’s Gucci x Pomellato Monili collection, which paired supple leather with diamonds, was one of the clearest signals of this shift.According to experts, this evolution is about expanding the vocabulary of jewellery. Mehul Jain, founder of a jewellery brand, says, “The shift isn’t about introducing new materials but about pushing the boundaries of innovation, experimenting with non-conventional aesthetics, and elevating finishes in a way that still feels true to fine jewellery.”Redefining luxuryIn today’s high jewellery landscape, value is increasingly defined not only by carat weight but also by creativity, with sculpture and storytelling carrying as much importance as sparkle. Experts say designers experiment with unconventional materials amid rising gold prices. “We’re seeing several jewellers incorporating non-traditional materials—from cords to resin—into their designs as a creative response to the rising price of gold,” Rosie Lillis, jewellery expert, was quoted as saying by Marie Claire while speaking about the 2026 trends. Rosie adds, “It’s giving rise to a new wave of 'high-low' fine jewellery… Designers like Roxanne First and Alison Lou are among those doing this best. It's a trend that feels fun, modern, and, most importantly, doesn’t cost the earth.”Houses like Boucheron and Hemmerle have long experimented with rock crystal, aluminium and even wood, treating jewellery as sculpture rather than purely a repository of value.“Consumers today have become much more adventurous and design-orientated. Clients are finding innovative uses of enamel, combinations of metals, artificial stones, and new-age finishing methods attractive, as they lend unique features to jewellry while enhancing its elegance and luxury quotient,” says Dishi.Beyond the usual stones Salt Rock: At the Spring/Summer 2026 show, Schiaparelli pushed material boundaries by transforming Himalayan salt into jewellery. Designed by Daniel Roseberry, the pieces were lit with tiny LED lights, giving them an almost dream-like glow. Himalayan salt is naturally soft and dissolves in water, making it fragile and unsuitable for everyday wear. Its use marked a shift, where unusual materials are chosen for their visual appeal rather than for how durable they are. Leather Cord: Across recent runways, leather cords with oversized pendants have emerged as a softer alternative to classic gold chains at brands like Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Tod’s. As gold prices rise, the look feels both practical and polished. Their move into high jewellery marks a bigger shift. The Gucci x Pomellato collaboration showed leather paired with diamonds in fine jewellery, blurring the line between accessory and heirloom. Meanwhile, Hermès has long elevated leather through metal-accented chokers and necklaces. Shell: Seashells are emerging as an alternative to traditional metals in jewellery, signalling a shift towards more organic materials on the Spring/Summer 2026 runways. Tory Burch showcased oversized shell earrings and clamshell pendants strung with beads and pearls, while Balmain added shell details to accessories. It all feels a bit more tactile and grounded, like jewellery that’s closer to nature. Rock Crystal: Boucheron made rock crystal carving a signature, often creating the illusion of floating diamonds. In February 2026, its “Faisceaux” brooch from the 2021 Holographique collection was acquired by the Victoria and Albert Museum. This piece is highly notable for using holographic rock crystal to create a prismatic effect. Cartier also reintroduced rock crystal in its 2025 En Équilibre collection, pairing it with emeralds in sculptural designs. Meanwhile, Hemmerle continues to push boundaries by combining rock crystal with unconventional materials like copper, aluminium, and wood, with its creations showcased at events including TEFAF New York 2026. Resin: Moving beyond traditional materials, designers are turning to lighter, more adaptable mediums to create statement jewellery. Known for its ability to hold vivid colour and sculptural forms, resin allows for oversized designs without added weight, reflecting a shift towards creativity. Labels such as Dior and Chanel have showcased neckpieces, rings, and bracelets with resin-like textures. At Dior, the Dior Rocks cuff features 3D-printed, stone-effect resin polished to a high shine, paired with gold-finish metal and a crystal centre, blending playfulness with craftsmanship.Meanwhile, designers like Milan-based Bea Bongiasca are pairing glossy enamel finishes with gold and diamonds to create jewellery that feels playful, colourful, and intentionally non-traditional.Who’s buying the shift?In recent years, demand for alternative and design-led jewellery has largely been driven by fashion-forward buyers rather than traditional collectors.As Mehul explains, “Jewellery is now not being primarily looked upon as an investment asset, especially by the younger millennial audiences. They want new pieces, specially cut diamonds, fresh looks, and hence there is a growing demand from fashion-centric buyers, who value craftsmanship but are also seeking something distinctive and truly one-of-a-kind.”However, he adds that as long as craftsmanship and intrinsic value remain intact, even classic buyers are gradually becoming more receptive to newer, unconventional expressions.