An adventurer's account of the Annapurna Trek

At the conclusion of the Goechala trek in May 2017, it was a no brainer that the trekking bug had bitten us all. We’d already begun discussions in earnest as to where we’d head next. Over the course of 2017, we shared articles and pictures with one another and the momentum fortunately did not fizzle out. It was probably in February 2018 when we decided the next trek was going to be to Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal. When it came to narrowing down on the actual dates, only a few had reservations. But not too long after, it was decided that we’d all congregate in Kathmandu on 15 May 2018. We were a group of 12 classmates – five were from Nepal itself, two from Bangladesh, three from Kolkata, one from Sikkim and yours truly from Siliguri. Chettri from Sikkim, and I decided we’d drive to Nepal’s Bhadrapur airport and fly to Kathmandu.And so we did, flying in from Bhadrapur, Dhaka and Kolkata on 15 May 2020. The party commenced at the hotel with a sense of serious urgency. Busy as life and other trivialities are, we seem to be able to budget for fairly long drawn getaways. I mean, what is the hurry, anyway?

The first day in Kathmandu on this particular trip remains a tad hazy, thanks to the unrestrained indulgence in intoxicants and more. The following day was set aside for last moment preppers like me to get their gear in order and make any purchases for the trek ahead. Given most group members were keen to go last moment shopping, Jemin took us across to an inexpensive area called Kalapatthar in Thamel.The following morning, we were three groups travelling via different modes. Akhil, Ratul and Chat—the Kolkata boys—were going to fly to Pokhara. Abit, Parvez and Alam set out earliest since they were taking a bus along with most of the luggage. The rest of us were going to drive in Murtaza’s and Katwal’s cars. I was going to be among the driving lot because any opportunity to drive cannot be missed.Our halt in Pokhara was to be at the KGH Waterfront Resort. It was a beautiful property located close to the city’s famed Phewa lake. Now with hotel stays, the sheet count and room service are immaterial. For me, the priority is always the breakfast. Fortunately, the breakfast at the KGH Waterfront was well beyond my expectations.We made sure to retire early on day three since the following morning was when we’d begin the trek. Our group leader, Abit, shared the stair climb would be quite strenuous and much as I was mentally prepared, I knew I was in for an exhausting climb.

The first night’s halt was to be at Ulleri. Now, Nepal has proper amenities available along their popular trekking circuits. By amenities, I mean the likes of lodges offering comfortable rooms, sometimes even with attached toilets. There’s running water flowing out of taps and even WiFi connectivity for a reasonable fee. And we would even come across well stocked bars at higher altitudes. Interestingly, we’d crossed the likes of a night club on our way to Ulleri.In contrast, the Goechala route in Sikkim was absolutely bare bones. With the exception of rudimentary trekker’s huts at a few locations and basic toilets (a wooden platform upon which you performed your business without looking into the depths below), there was little else by way of amenities. Also, it wasn’t as though you could book one of these huts beforehand; it was a more medieval process. Whoever laid claim to it first, on any particular evening, got to stay there. Otherwise, a tent was the next best option. Not that the lack of luxury in Sikkim was in any way less fulfilling, but Nepal’s offerings sure seemed 5-star in comparison.As we settled into Ulleri for the night, we tried some kodo, a smooth tasting local rice brew that left a mild sense of warmth. The rooms were tiny but comfortable, and we sure had a good night’s sleep.

We woke up to a beautiful morning in Ulleri. The hamlet was neatly arranged on either side of the main stairway. There were several other lodges and many seemed to host guests for long durations.On the previous trek in Sikkim, our friend Ratul was notorious for taking forever to pack his belongings and get ready each morning. After all, he was ‘over prepared,’ if there is such a term. His equipment featured a bear whistle and even a flare gun. Given Sikkim’s proximity with China, a flare gun fired in distress might have invited the ire of the People’s Liberation Army. However, this time round, it seemed as though he’d turned over a new leaf. He was ready ahead of everyone.The breakfast served was a rich one. Deep fried Gurung bread with fried eggs was to become the trek staple. The bread is the equivalent of a deep fried bhatura; only this one was thicker. But we were going to burn all these calories away and so even the heavy ones like me dug in without any guilt.

We began the walk towards Ghorepani. It was mostly again just stairs that went up the hill and each time a slight descent came upon us, I was quite elated. For the most part though, we were gaining altitude. Also, these lower regions of the trek were fairly well inhabited. The walking time from Ulleri to Ghorepani wasn’t much and so we made it in time for a late lunch.However, along the way, Katwal met a person who claimed to have rhododendron derived honey. Now this particular variety is not the ‘innocent’ kind that is considered a super food – rich in nutrients and anti-ageing properties. Rhododendron honey supposedly results in hallucinogenic effects once consumed. And the seller advised extreme caution when ingesting the substance. Well, Katwal was sold and he shelled out a small fortune for what should otherwise have cost no more than a few hundred rupees if it was ordinary honey. Some INR1500 later, Katwal shared that we were in for a treat that evening. Later in Ghorepani, the twelve of us sat around in a circle, with the bottle and a small teaspoon.Keeping the prescribed dosage in mind, most of us tasted maybe a half teaspoon each. We waited with bated breath to see if the effects were beginning to set in. Then we reckoned we should perhaps increase the dosage and on the second attempt, we tried a little more. Once again, we waited to see if anything close to hallucinating was beginning to show. But alas, nothing happened. Not even an inkling of anything that was removed from feeling normal. It was then we realised that we’d fallen victim to a wily salesman who’d sold us ordinary honey. But in all fairness, his act was commendable. The term snake oil salesman perhaps alludes to such crafty souls.One common theme that also caught my attention along the way was the frequency of the term macchapucchre or fish tail. One of the peaks was named Macchapucchre since it resembled the tail of a fish. Its namesake was found dime a dozen. In fact, in Ghorepani, we were staying at a place called the Fish Tail Lodge.Dinner was a tasty meal comprising chicken curry, rice and vegetables. Most planned on an early night since there was a sunrise walk to undertake in the wee hours. There was a sunrise view point some distance away called Poon Hill.I, for one, decided to skip the early morning walk. I thought I would catch up on a little extra sleep. Later, I would find out to my dismay that it was a beautiful sight I’d missed out on.

On day six, we set out for Tadapani. This stretch was through rhodendron thickets and ever so often, a little hamlet would come into view. These usually would have a few lodges, eateries and a couple of stores. We stopped for tea at one of these places, and later in the day, for lunch. Several among us also sampled some delicious gundruk for the first time. This is a Nepalese culinary delight prepared using a fermented leafy vegetable.As we walked along, there came into view a little stream dotted with cairns. It made for a most unusual sight – one that was uniquely beautiful. I only found out later that placing cairns was a vintage method used to mark trails. It let travelers know they were on the right path.We made it into Tadapani in good time and it was a most quaint lodge that we checked into. The temperature was dipping and the rooms were well equipped with thick quilts. Aside from all the useless banter we were all party to, the one highlight was one friend’s level of preparation. Chat had even carried along a hair dryer for the trek. After he’d showered, the ensuing steps that followed made me wonder if he was gearing up for a party in ‘downtown’ Tadapani. The only fly in the ointment was there was no such glitzy place befitting of a gentleman turned out in his finest.We spent the evening taking a brief stroll along the village, purchasing a few knick-knacks from vendors selling handicrafts and trinkets. Later that evening, we learnt that the thousands of stairs we’d climbed this far were only the appetiser. The best was yet to come in the form of stairs that first descended into Chomrong and then ascended towards Sinuwa. But these were minor hindrances on the horizon because we then indulged in pizza and French fries. Nepal really is well equipped even in their remote locales and how they are able to serve up such fare, in the back of beyond, is noteworthy.Personally, I was at my stoic best by this time. It really did not matter whether there were a few hundred or several thousand stairs ahead. I had conditioned my mind in a Sisyphus kind of way, while throwing in some inspiration from R.L Stevenson. I was just going to do it (as if I was condemned to do so like Sisyphus was). Besides, I would do it all while enjoying the journey (as Stevenson had suggested).

Following our breakfast staples of deep-fried bread and eggs, we set out from Tadapani at a relaxed pace. The initial part took us downhill for a good two to three hours. Barely an hour into our day’s trek, we came upon a tea-house that looked as though it was lifted from an Enid Blyton tale. With red rooves and a white façade, and perched as it was on a ridge, it sure made us all stop and take numerous photos. On a future trip, hopefully, we will get to stay at this lodge in Chuile.We continued downhill until we arrived at Chomrong. This was going to be our lunch stop. Now Chomrong is a junction of sorts; various treks in the Annapurna region intersect here. Going by the comparatively ‘upscale’ stores that lined the village walkway, one would think it probably also saw trekkers staying for more than just a day or two. My yardstick for upscale was based on the well-stocked bars and the presence of a Lavazza café. Also, a common business we came upon were German bakeries. There were several along the route.

The lunch stop at Chomrong was a memorable one. We first had a leisurely cup of tea while we rested on their outdoor sit-out. On the opposite hill, we could make out the distinct outline of a trail. This was the route that we’d have to take. Somewhere on the higher climes of the opposite hill was Sinuwa, where we were going to halt for the night. Following a rather heavy chicken and rice fare, the climb up to Sinuwa was definitely not looking very attractive; well, not to me at least.But just as Sisyphus would have, I grabbed my trekking pole and began walking. The unwritten rule was that slower walkers should set out earlier than the rest. This way, the slow ones would not be too far outpaced along the way, since the brisk walkers would overtake them in no time.Although it was mostly stairs going up the hill, I could not help but reflect that this was a blessing really. A year ago, in 2017, when we were making our way towards Goecha La, the trail was mostly rock and gravel. Here in Nepal, the trail was mostly the equivalent of a pedestrian walkway. These were broad stone stairways that were wide enough for two–maybe three–to walk abreast in many places.The tea-house that we were staying at in Suniwa seemed to come upon us abruptly. It was, quite literally, right on the trail with its two parts flanking either side of the walkway. On the left were our rooms, and on the right was the dining area. It also had a little hut that was open on the sides. It offered the perfect setting for a leisurely beer with panoramic views.

What I also realised along the trek was that regardless of the bed offered, it always resulted in sound sleep. Long hours of walking later, the pillow, room size and bed sheets hold little value. Perhaps even an insomniac would be able to sleep like a baby after long walks such as these. The only major need at the time were ample quilts and blankets. And fortunately, all places we stayed at offered adequate bedding.An added luxury along this trek was the ability to take hot water showers. The tea-houses charged a small extra for water heating. Wi-fi, cell phone charging and water bottle filling were all charged a fair premium. It was fitting these charges be levied considering how remote these locations were.Yet another banter filled night later, we were en route Deorali. The scenery was now beginning to change quickly. We were being greeted with more picturesque views – the kinds that will usually adorn desk calendars. The air was crisper, and stunning waterfall upon waterfall came along. Each one warranted a brief stop, because regardless of how many I have seen over my travels, there’s always an inexplicable draw to the sight of water gushing from high above.Our halt on day six of the trek was at Deorali. The tea-house there boasted a stunning backdrop. There was a high waterfall and the terrain was mostly just shrub grass and rocks. The other highlight at Deorali was the steep increase in food prices. The price for a packet of uncooked instant noodles took us by surprise initially. But only moments later, one does realise the immense ordeal it is to get supplies up to these far-flung outposts.Deorali was our penultimate halt before we made it to what many trekkers refer to as ‘the summit’. Personally, I think scaling an actual summit is what mountaineers do – one that requires infinitely more grit and mental make-up. It is a tad amusing when trekkers refer to a ‘summit,’ which is often the byword for the highest point along the trek. For a mountaineer, a trekker’s summit is probably no more than just a base camp for them.And the highest point along our trek was exactly that: Annapurna base camp (ABC).

From Deorali, we began the ascent towards Macchapuchre Base Camp (MBC). The weather gods sure were in our favour because not once did we have to reach for our rain ponchos. All along the trek, we were blessed with sunny weather and thanks to internet accessibility, we had a fair idea of the forecast ahead. Many of us donned shorts still although we kept warmer clothing in our day packs. Our guide, Gyaltshen, pointed out that beyond MBC, it would be prudent to wear thick jackets and thermal inner wear.As we neared MBC, we came upon a local who was busy cleaning what looked like a stack of worms. It was, as one group member pointed out, the fabled Himalayan treasure called yarsagomba. It is essentially a caterpillar-fungus—meaning it begins life as a moving creature. The worm then becomes ‘mummified’ when it is infected by a parasitic mushroom. More popularly, it is termed Himalayan Viagra. Some five or six years ago, it had led to a harvesting frenzy on the lines of a gold rush.

We halted for lunch at MBC and we then set upon the final stretch to ABC. Yet again, we were fortunate that we were able to book a lodge at ABC itself. More often than not, trekkers must resign to staying at MBC and then walk up to ABC for a few hours’ visit.I was anticipating a hostile steep climb on this final stretch. But it was only a gentle slope, meandering through meadows. Since we’d begun early from Deorali, we had ample daylight ahead of us to explore ABC. Every so often, we’d stop for pictures and also try and spot any yarsagumba. The Himalaya gold, however, eluded us.It was probably just after 3 pm when we checked into the Namaste Lodge at ABC. We’d expected the rooms to be absolutely spartan but they were actually a pleasant surprise. And when we looked at the menu, it had all the offerings that tea-houses along the other stops also offered. The only difference was only vegetarian fare was served because these areas were considered sacred.

Once we’d settled in, we took a brief stroll to the moraine nearby. Now I’d heard about climate change and global warming and I will admit I often thought it was perhaps not as serious as it is made out to be. To our disbelief, we learnt the moraine had come to be because the glacier that once existed there had receded by a good 300-400 metres. It was then I realised the magnitude of concerns that environmentalists have been voicing. The area was also marked by several memorials that commemorated lives lost while attempting to scale peaks in the Annapurna range.Close to our lodge, we also chanced upon a small patch of green which was possibly artificial turf. At first glance, it seemed like a tiny golfing green. One group member suggested it was possibly a helipad. My quick retort was that it probably can fit a toy helicopter at best. But the following morning, I was caught with my foot in my mouth when an actual, albeit tiny, rescue helicopter did land.As evening came upon us, we couldn’t help but marvel at the scenic views that greeted us. On three sides were mountains and for those of us who’d thought the vistas on this trek would be somewhat lesser, our doubts were dispelled. The clear skies later that night allowed for the moon to cast its soft glow on the peaks. The silhouette, as a result, was ethereal to say the least.

The following morning was bright and sunny and a few us donned our trademark shorts yet again. Breakfast and photographs later, we commenced on our descent towards Bamboo. Yes, this was the name of the hamlet that was going to be our night’s halt. Most trekkers will usually descend hurriedly and halt in Chomrong but we had ample time. At our lunch stop on day eight of the trek, we caught a glimpse of some really large bee hives in the distance. We were possibly duped with honey from one of these regular sources.From Bamboo, it was onward to Jhinu. Basically, we were treading the exact same route that we’d taken on our way up to ABC. It was only from Chomrong that we would take a different route. It was a steep descent to Jhinu and all the while, the boys were very excited at what awaited us there.Jhinu has natural hot springs by the river and fatigued trekkers use these warm pools to rejuvenate. I was a little sceptical at first because it entailed another 30 minutes of walking to the springs from where we were staying. Following eight days of walking, I was more inclined to just sitting on a chair and gazing at the mountains. But I am glad I decided to visit the hot springs because it really was one of the trip highlights. In fact, much as the springs, the other reference point for all group members will definitely be the wizened old man who looked after the hot spring area. He could easily bag an award for being the grumpiest man if there was such a recognition.The lodge at Jhinu was quite hotel like. It even boasted a large retail area that sold souvenirs and clothing. We indulged in a heavy dinner that evening because the following day was only going to be a three-hour walk. We’d then take taxis to Pokhara from Ghandruk.

On day nine, we set out at a leisurely pace. I am sure none of us were entirely looking forward to urban settings. But as with all good things, the final stretch marked the curtain call on what was a most memorable trip. I was ambling along, lost in thought, when I was jolted out of my reverie by the harsh sound of a diesel engine. And almost abruptly, the walking trail merged with a wide road bringing the Annapurna trek to a close. Authored by Zabir Rahman. Zabir drives research writing at Stonebench, Singapore. His core interest was automobiles, although with time, he thinks he is growing more fond of writing and teaching. Zabir is now keenly interested in the technology space and particularly in edutech.