Maheshwar

Around 90 km from Indore, Maheshwar has been identified as the Mahishmati of the epics Mahabharata and Ramayana, the site of King Kartvirajun’s ancient capital. Ancient descriptions depict it as a spectacular temple-city and a major political and cultural centre. It was given a new lease of life when Maharani Ahilya Bai Holkar of Indore built a palace and several temples here in the 18th century. The Ahilya Palace interestingly depicts princely relics of the Holkar family and the highlight is a shrine on a palanquin. It has now been converted into a heritage hotel.

Walking down the steps from the palace towards the riverfront ghats, you can see the workshops of the Rehwa Society, established by the family to promote the local handloom industry. Maheshwar’s weaving tradition that began under the patronage of Ahilyabhai Holkar, the much respected 18th century queen of Indore, has resulted in beautiful sarees that are famous all over India for their distinctive patterns. Woven in a style that is 200 years old, the cotton and silk sarees are usually plain, checkered or striped but some of the patterns are very complex. You can see exquisite cotton and silk sarees with dobby-striped `pallus’ and bold borders. The weavers now also make other textile products. Closer to the ghats, you can see 18th century temples commissioned by Ahilya, dedicated to Kaleshwara, Rajarajeshwara, Vitaleshwara and Ahileshwar. From the overhanging jarokhas (balconies) of the temples and the sandstone palace galleries, the view of the river is breathtaking and tempted us to go down to the waterfront. You can take a boat ride on the Narmada for a view of the fort and temples rising up along the river.