MSG and the Umami debate: Fact or fearmongering?

On a balmy autumn evening at Inja restaurant at the Manor Hotel in Delhi, food connoisseurs, authors, chefs and experts came together for a Chef’s Table organized by the Food Future Foundation and We The Chefs. The evening saw a remarkable gathering of culinary experts from Japan and India, celebrating the rich interplay of culture, flavor, and innovation. The event featured Michelin-starred Chef Takuji Takahashi of Kyoto’s renowned Kinobu Restaurant and Food Scientist Dr. Hiroya Kawasaki. Together, they offered an enlightening exploration of Japanese cuisine, delving into the principles of umami, health, and sustainability. Joining the conversation were eminent chefs and popular names from the culinary world including Pawan Agarwal, the CEO of Food Future Foundation.

The Discussion
The discussion began with the role of umami, the fifth taste in Japanese cuisine and how it is a complete game changer when it comes to flavours. The discussion also brought into light, on one of the most controversial topics in the world of gastronomy- Monosodium Glutamate. Monosodium glutamate (MSG), is a flavor enhancer which is extensively used in Pan Asian cooking, but has long faced stigma as a "villain" in the food industry. This perception stems from a combination of anecdotal reports, cultural biases, and misinformation rather than conclusive scientific evidence.

MSG was created as a compound from glutamic acid that naturally occurs in foods like tomatoes, mushrooms, and cheese. Certain researchers pointed towards MSG causing some side effects like headaches, nausea, and "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome," a term coined in the 1960s after reports of discomfort following the consumption of Chinese food. However, numerous scientific studies, including evaluations by the FDA and WHO, have consistently classified MSG as safe for consumption when used in typical culinary quantities.MSG's role in culinary traditions, its scientific foundation, and its potential to elevate global cuisines.

The flavour-Umami that Monosodium Glutamate imparts, plays a significant role in Japanese Cuisine. Chef Takahashi delved into MSG’s indispensable role in Japanese cuisine, particularly in dashi, a base stock that forms the backbone of countless dishes. He explained how MSG enriches flavors without dominating them, creating harmony by amplifying the natural umami present in ingredients. “MSG is an enhancer,” Chef Takahashi noted during the discussion. “It doesn’t overpower; it helps each ingredient reach its full potential.”

Shared Umami in Indian Cuisine
The discussion also highlighted parallels between Indian and Japanese culinary practices. Professor Jamuna Prakash, a food consultant and former professor at the University of Mysore, emphasized how MSG could elevate the flavors of Indian curries, dals, and vegetable preparations. The event explored natural umami sources like tomatoes, mushrooms, and cheese, which MSG amplifies to deepen flavors.

Debunking MSG myths
One of the event's key moments was the scientific classification of MSG's safety. Professor Prakash explained that MSG is derived from plant-based sources such as sugarcane, sugar beets, and cassava through a fermentation process similar to yogurt production. She addressed lingering misconceptions, stating, “MSG is synthesized from natural materials and metabolized in the body like any other nutrient. It’s completely safe, even for pregnant women.” She also noted a fascinating fact: mother’s milk is one of the richest natural sources of glutamate, underscoring its safety and nutritional value.

Sodium reduction with MSG
It has been found that the dishes that use MSG, use less amount of salt sodium in dishes. Containing only 12% sodium, compared to 39% in table salt, MSG allows chefs to reduce sodium by up to 40% without compromising taste. This property has even been recognized in national health strategies, such as Singapore’s campaign to promote low-sodium alternatives.

MSG’s place in contemporary kitchens
MSG is not ancient. Its journey began in 1908, when Japanese chemist Dr. Kikunae Ikeda discovered the taste of umami in kombu seaweed and identified glutamic acid as its source. His findings led to the creation of MSG, a seasoning that revolutionized culinary practices by enhancing natural flavors.

Bridging cultures through umami
The event celebrated the shared heritage of umami in Indian and Japanese cuisines. Ingredients like peas, garlic, corn, and potatoes, rich in natural glutamates, were highlighted as a common thread. “Japanese food remains one of the healthiest cuisines despite its liberal use of MSG,” remarked Chef Ajay Chopra, underscoring the seasoning’s role in global gastronomy.

The event brought together prominent figures from the culinary world, including Masterchef Ajay Chopra; Dhruv Oberoi, Executive Chef at Olive Bar and Kitchen; Vaibhav Bhargava, Partner Chef at CHO; Ravitej Nath, Co-founder of Highlife and Corporate Chef & Director at Spice Lab, Tokyo; Veena Arora, Consultant Chef at The Imperial; Dr. Chef Parvinder Singh Bali, Director of the School for European Pastry and Culinary Arts; Manish Sharma, Executive Chef at The Oberoi, New Delhi; and Sourish Bhattacharyya, Senior Consultant at We The Chefs.