Polki vs Kundan vs Jadau jewellery: Here’s the main difference that you didn’t know

If you’re getting married this wedding season and you’re not in the mood for carrying the traditional gold jewellery look with your attire, then it's time to pick something from the selection of traditional Indian diamonds that look absolutely heavenly with bridal lehenga-choli. Yes, you got the right hint, as we’re talking about kundan, polki, and jadau jewellery aesthetics, which have now become regular for brides. But are you confused about what to choose and how it is created? Then don’t worry, as we have decoded it for you.

Polki is an uncut and unpolished diamond in its raw form, which is earth-mined and is flat on one side, whereas the other cut has a curved or convex shape. These diamonds are not faceted or shaved to have geometric faces like the usual polished diamond, which we see in cushion-cut and princess-cut rings. They undergo several stages of processing from their raw form and achieve high-shine brilliance, which is then shaped into different jewellery pieces. It is a timeless pick in Indian jewellery, making it a good investment, and is often passed down as a fashion heirloom.

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In the jewellery industry, the term 'kundan' has two meanings, which creates confusion for the layman. One kundan means the 24-karat gold foiling, which is used on the base to hold the glass and precious stone together, where the glass is mainly an uncut diamond, which holds the main value. The other is, Kundan jewellery which still uses gold and silver as the base metal, and therefore it is counted under precious jewels and is less expensive than polki, but it is another jewellery heirloom passed from generation to generation.
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Let’s start with this: that jadau is not a type of jewellery or stone like polki and kundan, but it is a technique of setting gold around the polki or around any other colourless stone. The word ‘jad’ means embedded, and that’s what the artisans do. It is an art of setting 24-karat gold around stones, which is called 'jadau', and the jewellery it is created on is known as 'jadau jewellery'. Polki stones are often used in traditional jadau jewellery work and suit the rough-edged quality of polki, giving it a classic royal finish.
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The craft of using uncut diamonds in jewellery dates back 2500 years and was first brought to India by the Mughals, after which the Rajput courts started taking an interest, and subsequently, the other royal families in the country made it popular. Amongst which the name that still holds the highest demand and value is that of polki. All the royals adapted the polki technique to their own version and taste, and it is still considered just as valuable as it was then. In the present day, Bikaner in Rajasthan is where the most skilfully hand-done polki techniques are done, followed by Gujarat.
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From celebrities to general brides, all have their eyes on a statement polki, kundan, or jadau-style statement necklace, which instantly uplifts the whole show of the fit, making the ensemble look royal and iconic. To sum up, one can understand that polki is the name of uncut, raw diamonds, kundan are the pure gold strips that fit on the stones to set them, and jadau is the technique by which the stones in polki or kundan jewellery are set in gold, and rarely in silver. Thank us later for making your wedding jewellery shopping much easier!
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