Eri silk: The all-season sustainable luxury fabric

When Prime Minister Narendra Modi gifted an Eri silk stole from Assam to Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni during his recent visit to Rome, it was more than a diplomatic gesture. It was a statement about India’s cultural diplomacy, sustainable textiles, and the rising global importance of Northeast India’s indigenous industries.  The gift brought international attention to Assam’s centuries-old Eri silk tradition — a textile that is increasingly being recognised as one of the world’s most ethical and sustainable luxury fabrics. Eri silk is indeed a remarkable “all-weather” fabric. Its natural isothermal properties trap air between the shorter, spun fibers, which provides warmth in the winter, yet its high breathability keeps the body comfortably cool in the summer.

Alongside the Eri stole, Modi also presented Assam’s aromatic Joha rice to Qu Dongyu and gifted a Shirui Lily-inspired silk stole representing Manipur’s natural heritage. These gestures showcased Northeast India not merely as a geographical frontier, but as a repository of ecological knowledge, craftsmanship and cultural capital.

Eri silk, often called “Peace Silk” or “Ahimsa Silk,” differs fundamentally from Mulberry silk in its production process. Eri silk is harvested only after the moth naturally emerges from the cocoon.  Eri silk especially attractive to ethical luxury brands in Europe, Japan and North America, where conscious consumerism is reshaping the fashion economy.

The fabric itself has a unique identity. Unlike the shiny texture of Mulberry silk, Eri has a soft, wool-like feel, excellent thermal properties, and a matte finish that appeals to modern minimalist fashion aesthetics. It is breathable in summer and warm in winter, making it highly versatile for contemporary apparel.

Assam’s heritage meets global luxury

Eri silk has deep roots in Assam’s socio-cultural history. Traditionally woven by indigenous communities, especially women artisans, the fabric is an integral part of Assamese identity. Handwoven Eri shawls and stoles are often associated with ceremonies, rituals and community traditions. Assam is one of India’s leading producers of Eri silk, alongside smaller contributions from Meghalaya, Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh and parts of West Bengal. According to India’s Central Silk Board, Eri silk production has steadily increased over the last decade as demand for sustainable fabrics rises globally.

India is the only country in the world that commercially produces all four major varieties of natural silk — Mulberry, Tussar, Muga and Eri. Among them, Eri is now witnessing the fastest growth in premium sustainable fashion markets.

The recent diplomatic gifting by Prime Minister Modi also reflects a broader effort to position Northeast India as a centre for high-value cultural and economic products. Assam Chief Minister Himanta Biswa Sarma noted that the gift symbolised the government’s commitment to taking Assam’s heritage to the global stage.

Eri silk vs mulberry silk: The sustainability debate

1. Ethical production

The strongest advantage of Eri silk lies in its cruelty-free production model. Ethical fashion consumers increasingly demand transparency in sourcing, and Eri silk aligns naturally with vegan-adjacent and animal-conscious luxury segments.

Mulberry silk continues to dominate global silk markets because of its sheen and smooth texture, but criticism around silkworm killing has led many conscious brands to seek alternatives.

2. Lower environmental footprint

Eri silkworms primarily feed on castor leaves, which require relatively low agricultural inputs. Castor cultivation generally consumes less water and fewer chemical fertilisers compared to Mulberry plantations. In an era where the fashion industry contributes nearly 10 per cent of global carbon emissions according to United Nations estimates, low-impact natural fibres are gaining economic significance. Eri silk production is also decentralised and largely cottage-industry based, reducing the industrial energy intensity associated with large-scale textile manufacturing.

3. Rural employment and women-led economy

One of the biggest strengths of the Eri silk ecosystem is its socio-economic inclusiveness.

Across Assam and Northeast India, Eri weaving supports thousands of rural households, particularly women artisans. Much of the weaving process remains handloom-based, preserving traditional skills while generating income in remote regions where industrial employment opportunities remain limited. India’s handloom sector is already one of the country’s largest rural employers after agriculture, supporting more than 3.5 million people directly and indirectly. Eri silk contributes significantly to this ecosystem in the Northeast.

For sustainable fashion brands, sourcing Eri silk is not merely about fabric procurement — it is about investing in artisan-led value chains and preserving intangible cultural heritage.

Why global dfashion brands are interested

Luxury fashion is undergoing a transformation. Consumers today increasingly value authenticity, traceability and sustainability over mass-produced glamour.

International brands are actively experimenting with natural fibres, regenerative textiles and handcrafted fabrics. Eri silk fits perfectly into this narrative because it combines:

• Ethical sourcing
• Low environmental impact
• Handmade authenticity
• High durability
• Indigenous storytelling
• Limited-edition craftsmanship

This is particularly relevant in the premium slow-fashion segment, where exclusivity and narrative-driven products command higher margins.

Blended fabrics are also creating new market possibilities. Eri blends well with cotton, wool, linen and Tussar silk, producing fabrics suitable for luxury jackets, scarves, dresses and contemporary fusion wear.

The business opportunity for Northeast India

India’s textile exports crossed billions of dollars annually, but much of the value still comes from conventional cotton and synthetic segments. Eri silk offers India an opportunity to build a niche global identity in ethical luxury textiles. The global sustainable fashion market itself is projected to grow rapidly over the next decade as regulators in Europe tighten sustainability reporting standards and consumers shift toward environmentally responsible products.

For Assam and Northeast India, this creates a major economic opportunity:

• Expansion of artisan clusters
• Growth in eco-tourism and textile tourism
• Export-oriented luxury branding
• GI-tagged indigenous products
• Women-led entrepreneurship

The challenge now lies in scaling without losing authenticity. Infrastructure gaps, inconsistent supply chains, lack of global branding and limited design intervention continue to restrict the full commercial potential of Eri silk. However, recent diplomatic visibility and rising international awareness could significantly accelerate market demand.

Beyond fabric: A symbol of cultural diplomacy

Prime Minister Modi’s gifting of Eri silk in Rome signals a broader shift in India’s soft-power strategy — one that highlights indigenous crafts, sustainability and regional diversity. In many ways, Eri silk represents the future of luxury itself: slower, ethical, rooted in community, and environmentally conscious.

As the global fashion industry searches for materials that combine sustainability, Assam’s “Peace Silk” may no longer remain a regional treasure — it could become one of India’s most valuable textile exports of the 21st century.